Day 27 (75 miles), Day 28 (123 miles), Day 29 (51 miles), Day 30 (rest)

Apologies for the week long delay since the last full update, but racing through Kansas we hardly had time to sleep.

From about 30 miles into the mountains of the East, Kansas had become an almost mystical place in our minds, with the thought of long, flat roads heading due West keeping us going through the rougher sections. We had received warnings though that there could be trouble in paradise, with the notorious South Westerly winds that constantly sweep the plains getting the better of many a trans-continental biker. Someone must have been smiling on us though, no doubt amused by our previous struggles, because for the most part the winds were no more than a gentle cross-breeze.

We were more than a little smug to roll into Great Bends having notched up 145 miles in a day - no doubt a record that will stand for the duration of the trip - assisted by a strong tail wind.

The only bad weather came during the nights, and one particularly bad thunderstorm a few miles East of Cassoday, where we had pitched tent for the night, had Dan scuttling round the tent at 4am in his tiny man-pants checking the guide ropes were sufficiently tight. Because that would have helped in a tornado.

The people were lovely, the scenery amazing, and overall Kansas was our favourite State thus far.

In Tribune we met two American bikers also travelling to San Francisco, James and Jack. It was great to meet some new people, and we spent the next two days to Pueblo comparing the relative drinking cultures of our respective homelands. Other than a dust-storm just after the Kansas/Colorado border, the weather remained a friend, and a big day to Ordway left only 51 miles before a much needed rest.

The bikes are currently in a shop, with mine in particular needing some much needed TLC - 9 punctures in 13 days is too many, and I am not carrying my bike and bags for another mile as I had done in Kansas. Other than that in Pueblo we will eat, sleep and recharge the batteries for the ascent into the Rockies, which have been looming on the horizon for the last couple of days.

Day 23 (78 miles), Day 24 (88 miles), Day 25 (145 miles) & Day 26 (97 miles)

Kansas has been kind to us..

We've been very fortunate with the weather in Kansas and the 'Great Plains' have allowed us to rack up some big mileages. We are hoping to have a rest day in either Pueblo or Colorado Springs where a full update and pictures will hopefully be posted.

Pattie Counter Newsflash

Dan - Thank you to all those who have shown faith in my abilities to consume unseemly quantities of broiled meat but due to a very disappointing weigh in this morning it seems that I have somehow managed to cycle 1850 miles and put on 2lbs for my troubles. Due to this I am conceding and will no longer be pursuing the crown 'HRH the King of Patties'.

For interests sake we will continue to count patties consumed for the remainder of our journey.
Sorry again to all those who I know will take this news as hard as I have but I refuse to peddle across a continent and add another spare tyre around the mid rift in the process.

Day 22 to Butler, Missouri (91 Miles)

We spent a hung over morning slowly but steadily completely the final leg of the 200 mile stech we'd done on the Katy Trail. Although it is a fantastic faciity and much needed rest from the traffic we were both glad to be back on the tarmac.

Both still really suffering from the day before we somehow dragged out and long day reaching Butler City Lake near the Missouri-Kansas border just in time to pitch our tent in the last light of the day. After couple of buds and a brief chin wag with a few local fishermen (about how to reel in a decent cat fish) we hit the sac and were serenaded to sleep by the consistant mooing sound of what we were told were the bullfrogs.

Day 23 - now in Kansas. Update to follow

Day 21 - Resting in Sedalia

1 am on our rest day and pity was taken on us by two Sedalia locals Chuck and Michelle.

Apparently they couldn't bare to see us in those states (the norm after a rough day) on a garage forecourt (Dan scoffing and Joe out cold snoozing - more photos of both to follow) clearly lost and needing some sort of direction. Having shown us to the nearest motel we thought it only fair that we should visit them at the Biker Bar (Chez When) they own in town to say thank you.

We are not entirely sure how eating and drinking (inc. sampling a range of local beers) all night and then not being allowed to pay a dollar for the pleasure is saying thank you but too much beer and honey whiskey later it appeared the debt had been repayed. They appeared to be thrilled we'd spent the night with them and their local biker clientel - who even insisted on contributing towards the trip (they'd obviously been told about Joe's sleeping position next to pump number 4 the night before) and apparently we've got some bad boi Chez When t-shirts in the post.

This is just another example of the warm welcome we've recieved across America. This was on top of $10 we'd already been given by the local bike shop owner who we'd been in to see for tyres inner tubes earlier in the day. Despite being a former and very modest US cycling olympian (in the 80s/early 90s) he still pandered to our egos saying it was a great thing we were doing which deserved a beer on him.

Having had a fairly dismal introduction to Sedalia and ending up spending our day off in a particularly seedy Motel (Ramada Inn) we left still exhausted but with it in a much more positive light.

Days 18, 19 & 20 (265 Miles)

Day 20 to Sedalia, Missouri (94 Miles) & Day 21 resting

We left Jeff. City on the KT Trail on the advice that although highway 50 to Sedalia might be 30 miles shorter it would definitely not be worth the day on the side of a busy shoulderless road.

On time and having Joe's tyre (that had gone flat in the night) fixed by 9 am we were on route riding the trail enjoying relatively easy riding and some great scenery next to the Missouri River. Unfortunately 20 miles upstream we reached a closed/flooded KT trail. After an hour walking the heavy gravel detour we were advised (by a passing highway warden) that we could rejoined the trail but might have to ride in a few inches of water. Of course a few inches turned into the best part of a foot and we/the bikes/panniers got very wet. There should be some good pictures to follow but we are currently having technical difficulties.

Eventually having passed the flooding and pressing on we reached Booneville (where the KT leaves the river) by late afternoon and after a quick feed decided to try and save a good day by aiming to ride another 30 - 40 miles to Sedalia before dark. Of course we didn't make this and following trail rules we had to leave the trail at sundown to take none other than highway 50 (which turned out to have an annoyingly generous shoulder) f0r the last 10 miles into town. As a final rubbing of salt in the wounds Joe's back tyre blew out about 5 miles from town and we finished a terrible day with another hour and a half walk into town.

We didn't get to bed until gone midnight at which point we decided a rest day was very much needed tomorrow.

Day 19 to Jefferson City, Missouri (89 Miles)

The Katy Trail proved to be a good choice of detour as we clocked up some good miles and reached Jeff. City early enough to enjoy a ride around the sites in the light looking for a place to stay.

Day 18 to Union. Missouri (82 Miles)

We braved the roads south of St Louis to meet up with the old Missouri-Kansas-Texas railway which for the large part of Missouri has been renovated into a bike trail (the M-K-T or "Katy Trail"). Apart from being particularly unpopular on the roads (being told repeatedly to "please get off the road" but with varying styles and wordings) the day went without any major problems.

Day 17 to St Gen, Missouri (54 miles)

We didn't leave Murphysboro until gone 1pm. Really grim day cycling hungover but we made it across the Mississippi and into our 5th state (Missouri). We've changed route slightly and are heading north to take what is now called "the Katy Trail" across Northern Missouri. This was primarily to avoid crossing another mountain range (the Ozarks in Southern Missouri) as we'd heard a lot of negative things about how tough they were and how unpleasant the roads are there but also as we thought a few days riding the old Texas - Chicago railroad route along the Missouri River would be a better/easier/quicker option. Roll on Kansas!

Oh we also crossed the Mississippi at a place called Chester, Illinois today where Popeye was apparently created. There should be a few photos of us in front of Popeye statues on the slide show shortly.

Day 15 to Murphysboro, Illinois (105 miles)

After the wasted afternoon on day 14 we were relieved to reach the Ohio River and border to Illinois by midday on day 15 we were even more relieved to cross over into our fourth state of the journey to find that it was flat.

Having previously said that we'd make the best of good terrain/weather we got our heads down and managed to peddle on for our second 100 plus mile day.

It was an afternoon sharing the road with some of the 17,000 Harley Davidson bikers that had amassed in Southern Illinois for a festival that weekend. We got a chance to chat to a few whilst refuelling at a service station, talk about being on the road, compare bikes etc. Having previously feared our skin-tight outfits might have been a bit too much of an eyeful for that leather-clad bunch we were relieved that they looked beyond the sweat wicking hot-pants and we were soon accepted - the lycra wasn't fooling anyone. They knew we were bad boi!

By early evening we arrived at our destination, ate "the best Ribs in the US" (justly described by bon appetite magazine), were treated to a few drinks as we told them we'd chosen the route to sample their world famous pork products and ended up being adopted by some bar staff and taken out for a night on the tiles.

Probably not a good idea to roll into bed at 3 am after a night of Red Rook beer and Jack Daniels Whiskey but we'd had a great day and felt it was deserved.

Day 15 to Dixon, Kentucky (54 Miles)

After a frustrating day 14 having lost several hours to the unpredictable American weather we were up early and looking for a big day on 15.

A;as this was not to be as we were forced to take shelter in a McDonalds (yes it was convenient timing) as a tornado warning siren sounded during our afternoon Gatorade break. It was a fairly surreal experience to receive complementary tornado survival tips whilst being served up a couple of Ronald's best patties by one of his trusty spotty faced teenage employees. All knowledge is good knowledge though I guess and if there comes a day when the sky does open up and the apocalypse is upon us, there may be mass hysteria but Joe and I will be safe and sound curled up around a u-bend in the gents.

Fortunately we were spared taking the McSurival position as 3 hours later this dreaded tornado still hadn't materialised. Unfortunately it had prevented our big day 14 and we made it to the nearest town for a patty, bath and early to bed.

Day 13, 107 miles Elizabethtown, KY & Day 14, 89 miles, Central City, KY

We were both relieved to get on and do a few big days now we're out of the hills. Although still rolling hills it's been far better than East KY & Virginia and apart from the odd downpour the weather has finally given us a little bit of a break (although still in the 90s).

Early start tomorrow hoping for another big day with the aim of getting ahead of schedule in case the mountains in Missouri turn out to be tough.

Sorry but not much else to report....oh except tonight was our first chance for a beer in over a week as Kentucky up to now has been "Dry". A couple of buds in frosted glasses washed down our second dinner very well.

Days 6 - 11 (4th June - 9th June)

Day 11 to Berea, Kentucky - 59 miles

Finally out of the mountains. The warm welcome and pleasant university town of Berea was the obvious choice for a much needed rest day.

Special thanks to Janet who came out into the heat to ask us what we were up to, found us a local (very luxurious) hotel and bartered us an incredible price to stay. It was some much needed mothering which we, at that point two very bedraggled washed out boys, both really appreciated.

Day 10 to Boomeville, Kentucky - 60 miles

Another disappointing mileage was largely down to one of Dan's so far successful short-cuts going horribly wrong. A dead-end 8 miles downhill on a gravel track (marked as a link-road on the map) isn't a fun place when it's approaching 100 degrees and you're being heckled by hill-billies.

Luckily we managed to meet a very nice a self-confessed hill-billy called Eddie who agreed to move his assault rifles (which were for deer hunting?) aside to put the bikes in the back of his pick-up and return us to the point where we left the road. Despite losing about 2 hours and a lot of energy we both considered ourselves very lucky to be out.

Day 9 to Hindman, Kentucky - 80 miles
Not much to report except much more of the same - endless mountains. Glad to make up on the mileage for the disappointing Day 8. Joe also uttered "this is the least enjoyable thing I've ever done" for the first time - a catchphrase that he would be groaning repeatedly in Days 10 & 11.

Day 8 to Breaks Interstate Park - 41 miles

The 41 miles we managed on day 8 is testament to the difficulty of the cycling around the Virginia/Kentucky border. The thermometer once again rose up to 100F and the hills continued to rise. The distance between each 3000 foot peak of the New Appalachians decreased, and we began to dread the downhill sections because at the bottom the climb would begin again.


Unflattering as it may be the photo above really gives an idea how we were feeling on day 8.

Neither of us has a very clear recollection of this day - but by four o' clock we decided to cry defeat and cycled into the Interstate Park to camp amidst the cicadas, who had emerged from their 17 year dormancy period.

Day 7 to Rosedale - 73 miles

We headed West towards the heart of the mountains early in the morning of day 7, and despite heavy legs and blistering heat yet again made steady progress throughout the day. The terrain became increasingly unforgiving, with steep gradients and poor road conditions, but we pressed on and by half six the mileage for the day was respectably in the high sixties.

Eager to get the most out of a hard day, we decided to press on past a campsite to treat ourselves to a motel for the night, and the final hour was fuelled by the thought of a hot bath and cable TV...

To say the motel was a bit of a disappointment would be to refer to the Appalachians as 'a few little hills.' Our arrival at a small group of roadside shacks was greeted by a gaggle of grumpy drinkers on the curbside and the comforting clanging of a broken air-conditioning unit that we were assured by the very friendly owner had been in that state of disrepair for some days. The room would have drawn complaints from inmates in Third World prisons, the local 'restaurant' proved to be a counter in the nearby petrol station, which of course had closed thirty minutes before we arrived, and the room had a worrying 'annex' in the corner - an unlocked door leading to a room with no glass in the window. But at least we had two microwaves.

We managed a good night's sleep though.

Day 6 to Wytheville, VA - 57 miles

The tiredness and the heat really took their toll on day 6, with the 100F temperatures cooking us both on the roads, despite factor 45 sun block.

Points were accrued on the pattie counter with two Tex-Mex burgers (double patties smothered in chili) at a grotty little petrol station, and this looked like being the high point of the day...until we met a great couple also doing the Trans-Am trip, Mike and Carolyn.

Under their guidance we stopped for a free night's camping in the public park in Wythville, and it was brilliant to sit up chatting about the route and getting some much needed advice about the trials to come.

Now in Kentucky.

Sorry for the lack of updates over the last 5 days. We are still alive but have had a fairly eye opening 6 days hanging out with the hill-billies and haven't seen a computer since we left Christiansburg. R]It's rest day tomorrow in Berea (a town with internet and everything) so full blog update hopefully to follow shortly

Day 5 to Christiansburg, Virginia (80 MIles)

Just a quick post as it's been a real toughy today. A good morning was followed by a miserable afternoon where we spent the majority climbing large hills in the rain.

Spirits were dampened further when we hit Roanoak and had our first taste of American road rage (from a very fat man in a 4x4). Joe fell off as a result of his antics. His prized jacket hasn't faired too well but apart from that's he's fine but after so much warmth and welcome in Virginia it was a real shame.

On arrival at our stop for the night we discovered that the rain that we'd been soaked by all afternoon was part of a storm that generated the first tornado in Roanoak since 1973. Hopefully it got the fatty in the monster truck.

31st May - 2nd June (Days 2, 3 & 4)

Day 4 - Lexington, Virginia - 65 Miles
After a long day yesterday and a bit of beer tasting in that evening (coupled with an excellent 16" Pizza) it wasn't too much of a suprise that we overslept and weren't on the road until 10:30. The cycling was good but too much stopping and distractions (such as the 88 Year Old "Cookie Lady" of Virginia - very famous apparently. Worth a google perhaps?) took it's toll on the milage.

We had a couple of firsts to day though.
1st time...
someone chased us out of a restaurant to get their photo taken with us (an excitable chap from Kentucky -Ernest, if you read this post they picture or send it to us. Thanks again for your support), we had a puncture (on Miguel the bike formerly known as "the Beast") & scale had to scale a mountain.

Day 3 - Charlottesville. Virginia - 90 Miles
After two disappointing days on the milage front we were keen to have a big one and put a dent in Virginia. Despite having to cycle in sweltering heat and through a rather large thuder storm we we're very happy to roll in to Charlottesvilles with the day's milage behind us. Nice to know what we can aim for on a good day.

Day 2 - Aquia, Virginia - 35 Miles
Bit of a rubbish day. Didn't set off until the afternoon, ended up in a really grubby campsite and had a really terrible night's sleep in the hottest tent in the world. Too hot...